New Look 6123 Dress

I was buying fabric recently when I saw New Look were having a sale so I picked up 6123 below:
I thought it was time to try out more brands instead of sticking with my favourite Burda!

I started making version B, using a suiting weight crepe fabric. The pattern uses facings for the front edges but I decide to cut lining pieces instead. I was in a bit of a rush because I'd left it until the last minute to make myself something for a wedding I was going to. So I cut straight from the fabric, tbh I rarely cut a muslin for myself anyway!

Instead -  if the only difference between printed sizes are in the side seam, then I cut the biggest size I think I'll need. ( in this case I needed a 12 at the waist and 8 everywhere else ) So I cut a 12 and used the dart positions for the size 8. I then tacked ( or basted! ) the entire front together before joining at the shoulders to the entire back.

I then pinned on an old zip at the center back - and then pinned the side seams together like so:

That way , once I tried it on, I could move the pins as needed. Pretty much as I thought - the waist was fine and then it was too big everywhere else. I held the front wrap with some pins and then moved the pins at either side until I had a good fit.

I didn't really like the way the skirt fell - so I tapered it in towards the knee ( I had also cut the skirt a little longer )  And I added a splash of colour to the side flounce:

Then, once I was happy with the fit, I un-picked the tacking stitches and marked any changes onto the wrong side using chalk . Here it is before I took out the tacking stitches:

It was a relief that the sizing according to the envelope was pretty much spot-on. Although I had measured the paper pattern just in case!

When I'm not sewing...

....I'm knitting.....yep I relax by swapping a sewing needle for a knitting needle... or 200...
I've been thinking of getting a knitting machine for years and finally went and bought one (second hand!) just before Christmas as a present to myself.

I'm on a bit of a learning curve at the moment, but it has been helped along by watching some of Diana Sullivan's youtube videos found here.    Although the instruction manual is with the machine, it just seems to make a lot more sense watching someone working on their own machine.

I made the blanket pictured by following her tutorial series from her blog Diana Natters. It's called the Swirl Round baby blanket. 

A few details to note - Diana uses a machine that has a larger guage than my machine ( I have a standard guage knitmaster) so my blanket came out smaller at 27" diameter. Which seems to be a perfect size for a lap blanket or for a newborn baby.

I honestly couldn't believe that my blanket was turning out the way it should - it's my second attempt at making anything other than swatches! I really like the edging used to finish off the blanket - it could easily be used with handknitting. see it up close here:

I'm hoping to make something wearable for myself soon. I've cut apart an old jumper that fit nicely but was a cheapy bobbly thing. And the plan is to try to copy it - but first I need to swatch the yarn and do some maths!
In sewing news I won a giveaway over on Melissa's blog Fehrtrade. 
It was for a young image magazine which arrived yesterday - I've plans to sew more than a couple of the outfits - they are adorable!

Bishops Palace Costumes

All bag sewing was abandoned for a little while late last year when I got the opportunity to Make some 18th and 19th century costumes for a local tourist attraction. Honestly I was petrified but delighted at the thought of making something so interesting (but a little out of my comfort zone too...!)

The 1740's gown above is being worn by one of the ladies who plays the  'Lady Este'. Lady Este is one of the former occupants of the Bishops Palace, and the tours are conducted by actors & actresses in period - appropriate garb.

Each of the gowns (3 of this style were needed), are made from silk. They are interlined and lined in cotton, so that they are as breathable and comfortable as possible. Below is a picture of the back which has some vertical pleats:

 The overskirt is pleated onto the bodice. The cuffs were gathered slightly and a chiffon frill attached.

  
The bodice ties to one side of the stomacher (front panel) with hooks which are concealed just under the ivory lace trim . I used some  vertical pleating on the stomacher aswell.
 

The underskirt is made from a darker purple silk. The side hoops similar to the ones shown here are worn underneath to give shape to the hips of the gown.

The gowns have been getting a great reaction from visitors - they look well in their setting. It's lovely to see them all finished -I'm really chuffed,  don't you think sometimes it's good to take on a new challenge? 

Burda Blouse Take two

Burda Blouse - version 2

 I made a second version of the blouse from the Burda book I bought last year.  I didn't have much fabric to play around with so I tweaked the pattern slightly to allow the front to be cut on a fold, and eliminating the princess seams.

To do this, I pinned the front and side front pattern pieces together along the stitching line from the end upwards. (I didn't pin them right to the top as I wanted it to lay flat as possible)

This meant there was a little gap along at the top of the pattern pieces. I cut around it, treating it as one piece.  This gave a little extra fullness in the top where it met the shoulder yoke. So I made two tucks as I was joining the front to the yokes.   

The fabric I used was a little bit sheer - so I used two layers just for the front and the yokes.  And I also added some black lace to the front.

I'm pretty sure it's not the last version I'll be making :)

Sew Grateful **Giveaway Winners **

A little later than promised ( oops sorry) ......I've finally made it back to my laptop to announce the giveaway winners!

I'm delighted to have so many new followers - thanks to you all for commenting & entering . There has been a lot of sewing going on around here, which kept me away from the online world. Here's one of the garments I've been working on:

A blue and ivory dress is under construction - I just love the bows on this lace:

A preview of the bodice:

And I've been working a lime green and navy blue dress for a girl who loves ponies and horses, so it'll have some interesting embroidery going on!

But now onto the giveaway - First prize was this book :

+ a copy of my PDF pattern for a foldover clutch. And the winner is  soisewedthis

CONGRATULATIONS:)  

And the winners of Pdf Clutch Patterns (which are available on Craftsy)

                               Are :  Kim Powell , Emily and Hueisei   !!!

Also a big thank you must go to Debi at My Happy Sewing Place   for organising Sew Grateful Week.  ps ** I'll be in touch with all you winners soon to send on your prizes**

Sew Grateful Week

Hi there -it's my first time taking part in Sew Grateful Week -there are lots more details and giveaways on Debi's blog here My Happy Sewing Place
 It's a great way to find new sewing blogs to follow. And maybe win some goodies too!
  So to tie-in with all the wonderful giveaways - I'm doing my first blog giveaway.
The first prize is the book below 'Bags with Style' - it has lots of inspiring bags and also has pattern sheets to make the bags yourself ( all unused and in perfect shape)

And also a PDF copy of my own bag pattern 'Cuada Foldover Clutch'

The next 3 winners will also get a free PDF copy of my clutch pattern .

To be in with a chance of winning please comment & let me know you want to be included :) Best of luck

And for an extra chance at winning :

*** follow this blog -  (or comment to let me know if you already do)
*** follow me on Craftsy here - Cuada  & comment to let me know

** winners announced on Thurs 6pm Irish Time **

Burda Magazine 09/2004 Jacket

I made this jacket for myself a while back - I started it for a Christmas present to myself ( the best kind of present to give i.m.o!) But it ended up being the following Christmas before I finished it.  Which probably means the cape I cut before this christmas will be ready by this time next year!

The pattern is from Burda Magazine 09/2004 , jacket 131. In the magazine, it's made from a tartan fabric and denim. The panel shapes are what drew me to the pattern - (there was a tab detail to the shoulder too but I left it out). The newer Burda magazines have very few patterns with this kind of interesting panels - but they're still good value even if you only use one pattern in the entire mag.

The sleeves turned out to be a bit tight - but luckily the tartan fabric I used has some stretch to it. It just means I can't wear anything too bulky underneath .

I had a lovely silver zip that finished it off nicely, it was given to me in a box of goodies. A friend of a friend mentioned she had a box of sewing bits that were never going to be used, that she would send on to me. When my friend met me with the box, it was much bigger than I expected - lots of lovely pieces of fabric and unusual zips. 

And finally one last pic of the back -